With 16,000kms of coastline, over 6,000 islands and crystal clear water it's no wonder that the Greek Islands are such a popular holiday destination. Every year an estimated 17 million tourists flock to this country of just 11 million to enjoy the beaches, towns, cuisine and culture of this wonderful destination.
Geographically Greece is split into the mainland and the groups of island in the Aegean and Ionian Seas. While the islands of Mykonos and Lesvos offer most in the way of gay scene and are by far the most well known and visited by queer tourists, each island has something unique for every type of visitor. So, no matter whether you like to spend your days dawdling on deserted beaches, wild nights dancing till dawn, or something in between, Greece can definitely deliver.
Although the country is split into many different regions and island chains it is all remarkably well connected and transport between the different areas is well organised. So much so that taking a multi-centre holiday is incredibly easy and it would be a shame not to explore more than one destination - even if it is just a day trip to a neighbouring town or island! Frequent ferries carry hundreds of passengers between the islands every day and there are also connecting flights between the main islands - but be sure to book in advance, especially during peak season.
The mainland of Greece is often overlooked by tourists in favour of the many island destinations on offer, but that's not to say that there's little of interest. In fact, with lively cities, coastal towns, ancient ruins and fantastic beaches you may be surprised by what you find here. Far from the tourist turmoil that can envelope the popular islands, many find a much more authentic Greek experience on the country’s mainland.
Greece’s two main cities, Athens and Thessaloniki are both situated on the mainland and offer the most diverse gay scenes in the country. Since the Olympic Games the Athens scene is thriving with many new lounges, clubs, cafes, bars and restaurants all catering openly to the gay locals and visitors. Add to this the seedy underground sex clubs, cinemas and cruising areas for which Athens (and also Thessaloniki) is well known, throw in to the mix the abundant historical and cultural attractions and the atmosphere of being in a large city, and you might find yourself making more than a passing visit to these two destinations.
However, it's not just the cities that draw visitors to the mainland as some of the most interesting and beautiful sights in the country are also to be found here. Towns such as Githeon and Monemvisia, with its imposing fortress and winding streets, are well worth exploring, while the first capital of ancient Greece, coastal Nafplion, watched over by medieval castles, is just a two hour drive from Athens and also within easy reach of the archaeological sites of Epidavros, Myceneae, Nemea, Argos and Corinth.
There are also many other impressive sites in mainland Greece which span over 7,000 years of turbulent history. From the Byzantine monastery ruins at Mystras, overlooking the city of Sparta, to the ancient sites of Olympia, Delphi, Dion and Pella, everywhere visitors walk they tread in the steps of heroes and legends. Mere youngsters in comparison, at only five hundred years old, the monasteries which perch on top of the giant rock formations which rise from the plains of Thessaly at Meteora are no less breathtaking and served as important havens for Hellenic culture during the Ottoman Empire’s occupation.
To the north the Mount Pelion peninsula is home to some of the most scenic and greenest landscapes and prettiest villages in the country. This mountainous area of olive groves and pine clad hillsides provide not only some of the best walking in Greece but some of the most beautiful beaches too.
What's more, if you thought that Greece was all about sun and sea, winter visitors can also enjoy the best skiing in Greece at Hania!
Amorgos, Andros, Folegandros, Ios, Kea, Kythnos, Milos, Mykonos, Naxos, Paros and Antiparos, Santorini, Sifnos, Serifos, Sikinos, Syros, Tinos.
The Cyclades islands are the most popular of the Greek islands and famous for their traditional architecture of whitewashed cubic houses, blue shutters and windows and winding alleyways overflowing with bougainvillea, so much so that the villages here are the inspiration of the typical picture postcard image many of us have of Greece.
This group consists of over 200 islands surrounding the uninhabited, yet sacred, island of Delos and are situated south east of the mainland. They are also well known for their hot dry climate and exceptional beaches, but are also rather arid due to the sparse rainfall and strong winds which blow throughout July and August. The Cyclades are very popular for island hopping as each island offers something different and a unique experience.
Gay visitors will be most familiar with Mykonos which has the most abundant gay nightlife but is also the most expensive and busiest especially during peak times. The other main islands of Paros, Naxos and the amazingly dramatic volcanic island of Santorini also have bars and beaches which cater well for gay tourists, although they are much more low key and mixed than the nightlife in Mykonos.
For those that want to escape the crowds the more unspoilt and quieter islands of Anafi, Andros, Floegandros, Serifos and the Little Cyclades east of Naxos have yet to succumb to mass tourism and make a welcome break from the crowds, which can overrun the more popular areas on the larger islands in this group.
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The Northern Aegean Islands |
Chios, Ikaria, Limnos, Lesvos, Samos, Samothraki, Thassos.
Situated in the north east Aegean and close to the Turkish coast, the North Aegean islands are less popular than some of the other island groups, but being further from the mainland they retain much more authenticity. Direct flights are available and are the most convenient way to reach the islands as ferries from Athens usually leave in the afternoons and evening travelling overnight to arrive the next morning.
The most popular island for gay and lesbian tourists is, of course, Lesbos (Lesvos) which is the third largest of all of the Greek islands and one of the most unspoilt in Greece. The influx of gay women, who began to visit the island in the early 80s, was due to Greek poet Sappho who was born here in the 6th century BC. The relatively few tourists who visit make this a largely unspoilt island and it remains one of the least expensive destinations in the Greek islands. However the infrastructure remains rather basic, which somewhat ads to the charm and unspoilt character of this island.
The characteristic large beautiful beaches and enduring villages remain largely intact from the ravages of tourism and this is truly a destination for those looking to escape from it all, relax and unwind. Gay life here is centred on the town of Skala Eressos, the birthplace of Sappho, 60 miles from the capital Mytilini. The spectacular three mile beach has a nude section, known as the ‘wommen’s beach’, at its northern end and has become a renowned destination for international lesbian tourists.
The remaining islands in this chain are well connected to Lesbos and again remain largely unspoilt and charming thanks to their relative seclusion. The hot springs of Ikaria, and the nearby secluded beaches on the Fourni islands between Ikaria and Samos, are well worth the visit for their reputed healing properties and the many great fish restaurants.
The quiet island of Limnos also has some fantastic unspoilt beaches as does Samos where day trips to the ancient Turkish city of Ephesus are also possible. Greek tourists favour the mountainous island of Samothraki, which is a remarkably beautiful but relatively unknown outside Greece, and Thasso, the most northerly of Greece’s islands, is also one of the greenest and scenic and offers some stunning photo opportunities.
Aegina, Agistri, Poros, Hydra, Salamina, Spetses
The Saronic Islands are the closest to Athens and can be easily reached all year round for a day trip or longer. Alternatively if you stay on this group of islands then a trip to see the Acropolis, Naflion or the ancient sites of Mycenae or Epidavros also make for an interesting day trip.
The island of Aegina is the most authentic of the islands and is a great destination to cycle around. Stop at the Temple of Aphaia above Agia Marina for excellent views and for lunch why not try the seafood restaurants which are a good place to refuel. Angistiri is known for the beautiful beaches that were the first to allow nudism in Greece while close by Hydra was once the home for jet-setters and, with no cars, makes for a quiet place to get away from the chaos of Athens.
When you tire of the beaches, restaurants and bars and the old harbours on the islands of Spetses and Sporos, a short ferry journey will take you to Athens and other mainland sites where you can explore or take a ferry to practically any other Greek island.
Alonissos, Skiathos, Skopelos, Skyros.
Situated in the north west Aegean, the Sporades are one of the most fertile and greenest groups of islands and are well known for the thick pine forest which cover the hills and beautiful unspoilt beaches. These islands can be reached by high speed ferry from Agios Constantinos, a couple of hours north of Athens, and ferries from Thessalomiki and the Cylcades in summer. The main island of Skiathos also has an airport with direct flights from the UK.
The busiest tourist island in the group is Skiathos, which has a reputation as being the most cosmopolitan and lively. The island has only one main town which is also called Skiathos and is where the nightlife of the island is located. The rest of the island is covered with thick pine forests with long sandy beaches and large numbers of apartment complexes which cater to the influx of tourists in summer. Gay tourists should head for the nudist area at Banana Beach which is at the far end of the island of the town and connected with a regular bus service.
Travelling away from Skiathos regular ferries connect the other Sporades Islands, which become less touristy the further you travel. Skopelos is the next island in the chain and also renowned for its lush forests and plentiful and beautiful beaches. The main town is the arrival point for tourists and offers the best nightlife and shopping opportunities, but travel to nearby villages and you will find quieter places to stay and some of the better beaches on the island.
Alonissos’s main town of Liadromia was damaged by an earthquake in 1965, when many residents moved closer to the sea. Many people have now returned to the old town which sits at the top of the island and retains much charm and fantastic view of the other islands.
Skyros is the most remote, hardest to get to and quietest island in the Sporades and again is very green. Probably the least touched by tourism, the island is home to some stunning and very secluded beaches - well worth the trip if you want to escape from it all.
Astypalia, Halki, Kalymnos, Karpathos, Kassos, Kastellorizo, Kos, Leros, Nisyros, Patmos, Rhodes, Symi, Tilos
To the south east of the Aegean you will find the Dodecanese Islands, close to the Turkish coast and with a well developed tourist infrastructure. Ferries from Athens to the closest island will take about 15 hours and leave overnight, thankfully then there are also direct flights to most islands from the UK during the summer.
Although there are more than 150 islands in the group it is the main 12 which are the main tourist resorts and between them offer everything from exciting nightlife, traditional unspoilt villages and a turbulent history. Many of the islands, even the smaller ones, have beautiful Byzantine churches, Venetian palaces and medieval castles which were built by knights on their way to and from the crusades.
The largest, most famous and historically important of the islands is Rhodes, once home to one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, The Colossus, and the medieval walled town has now been declared a World Heritage Site. The island has one of the best sunshine records in Greece, all the best to enjoy the stunning beaches. To the north is where the busiest and largest tourist destinations are to be found, further south are the more sedate, tranquil and quieter beaches and resorts.
The other main tourist islands in the groups include Patmos, known as ‘The Jerusalem of the Aegean’, Leros and Kalymnos with their unspoilt and charming coastal villages and Kos, with its well known nightlife in the main town. The remaining smaller islands retain many traditional villages which still uphold local traditions, working monasteries and of course countless beaches, villages and tavernas beautiful landscapes.
Corfu (Kerkyra), Ithaki, Kefalonia, Kythera, Lefkada, Paxos, Zakynthos.
The only island groups on the west coast of mainland Greece, the Ionian Islands, have more in common with Italy, both geographically and historically, than the other Greek islands. Far greener due to the greater rainfall here than on the other islands they are well known for their beautiful sandy beaches, crystal clear waters, charming villages and stunning scenic countryside which flourishes with greenery and nature.
The architecture and cuisine of the islands has also been greatly affected by their location. Fought over by Saracens, Normans, Kings of Sicily and the Italian city states of Venice and Genoa, it is no surprise that each has left their mark behind on the islands.
Corfu is probably the most well known island in this group and has rather a bad reputation thanks to the large tourist resort such as Kavos, Benitses, Gouvia and Ipsos. If you don’t want crowds, fish and chip shops and cheap booze these areas are best avoided. Travel within half an hour of most of the large resorts and there are still unspoilt and charming areas of this island.
As the largest Ionian island, Kefalonia has the most diverse and dramatic scenery with many wonderful bays and inlets which help to form its unusual shape. The northern rocky coastline has small and clean, pebble beaches, whilst those on the southern shores are long and sandy. Kefalonia is just waiting to be explored and with a good road network the island is ideal for driving. For those who prefer a slower pace, Kefalonia is a great choice.
Separated from the mainland by a small canal, the island of Lefkada was once joined to the mainland and attracts visitors for it wonderful beaches at Porto Katsiki and Kathisma and the world class windsurfing at Vassiliki. The smaller islands of Zakynthos Kythira and Paxos are less accessible and therefore attract fewer tourists. Beautiful and scenic they offer also offer some of the most scenic beaches on the islands such as the stunning shipwreck beach on Zakynthos.
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