"There is no more magnificent absurdity than Venice. To build a city where it is impossible to build a city is madness in itself, but to build there one of the most elegant and grandest of cities is the madness of genius." Alexander Herzen, My Past and Thoughts (1867)Much has been said about this unique town, about its monuments, the magical atmosphere of the Carnival, the rich tapestry of art and architecture and of course the romance of the waterways and gondolas. But no amount of words will ever do justice to this magnificent city. It needs to be seen to be believed.
In its heyday, Venice was one of the richest cities in the world and its prosperous heritage is everywhere. Venice was built on commerce and conquest, but that it was built at all – and that it is still standing – is the real miracle.
Getting ThereGo fly up to three times a day to Venice and have very competitive rates, exceptional value for money and terrific service. Book online and you`ll even get £2 off.
Once you are inside the airport terminal, ignore the touts and expensive water taxis (taxi acquei) and take one of the public water buses to San Marco. As of writing, the fare is 17,000 Lire (£5) and takes about an hour, but it’s well worth it for the view. It stops at Murano (famous for its glass) and Venice Lido (the local beach resort) before reaching Venice St. Mark’s Square.
Beware of water taxis: they are seldom checked by the authorities and can prove to be extremely expensive.
The cheap, and slow, option is to take the bus to Piazzale Roma.
Things to DoWhatever you do in Venice, hundreds of other tourists will be doing the same. It’s one of the most crowded cities in Europe so you will have to queue and fight your way along the narrow alleys.
St Mark’s Basillica (Piazza San Marco) is one of the most famous churches in the world and it gives its name to one of the most famous piazzas in the world. Beware though as there is a strict dress code prohibiting shorts, bare arms and shoulders and skirts above the knee. It will be enforced. You`re also not allowed to take photos.
Ducal Palace (Palazzo Ducale) and Bridge of Sighs (Ponte dei Sospiri).
The Palace of the Doges was the home to the rulers of Venice and is now the most popular attraction after St Marks.
The tourist office,
Azienda di Promozione Turistica di Venezia, is in the Palazzonia del Santi in the San Marco quarter (open daily 9.30am-6.30pm). There are also branches in the train station and at the airport.
Gay Life
The one time in Venice when it’s okay to be openly gay in public is during the carnival, held on the 10 days before lent. It isn’t specifically ‘gay’, but it is very camp and cruisey. There are no gay bars or saunas in Venice, but if you’re desperate for action then you’ll find both in nearby Padua - a charming old city about 35 minutes from Venice by train. Trains leave from Venice about every half-hour or so.
The university is Padua’s most famous landmark, so accordingly the gay crowd is mostly student based. To get to the gay district take the number 18 bus from outside the station to Fiera and let the fun begin. Make sure you get yourself an Arci-Gay membership card, available at most of the venues, for access to the bars, clubs and saunas throughout the country.
Flexo Videobar (Via N. Tommasep 96B) is a male gay sex club on four floors. There are bars, videos, playrooms, darkrooms, a meeting zone and private cabins to entertain you. The second Saturday of each month is Leather night.
Tiratardi (Via Palermo 20) is a café/bar popular with lesbians
Olympus Club Sauna (Via N. Tommaseo 96A) is situated next door to the Flexo and is a busy sauna with Turkish baths, massage, whirlpool and a vast labyrinth of dark corridors.
The Metro Sauna Club (Via Turazza 19) is another popular sauna with a darkroom.
Places to EatThe City has always suffered from a bad reputation of expensive restaurants, food lacking desirability and substandard service. FAR FROM IT. The problem foreign tourists have, once in Venice, is... that they are foreigners! There are numerous hotels, restaurants, café, pubs and bars all serving delicious (mainly regional dishes) at normal prices. The golden rule is “when in Venice, act like a Venetian”; avoid tourist restaurants and eat where the locals do. Obviously, the closer the dining place is to tourist attractions like the Rialto’s Bridge or St. Mark’s Square, the more expensive it tends to be; panoramic views will be reflected in the bill.
Nightlife
A popular venue for those who feel lucky should be the
Casino, located at the Grand Canal’s Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi, open daily between October and March from 3pm to 2:30am. Between April and September the Casino moves to the Lido (same hours) at the Palazzo del Casino. Dress smartly and take your passport with you to ensure entrance and... good luck!!
The city’s only disco is the
El Souk (closed on Wednesday) at Calle Fontarini Corfú, west of the Accademia.
Would you like to write a travel guide for us? Email us at
travel@gaydarnation.com