To Hull and back? Detractors should either come up or shut up, says Adrian Gillan.

Stung by tired old claims that Hull was “the worst place to live in the UK”, the city’s gay community rallied to the helm a wee while back in 2004 - with full council backing - to front a campaign to help reposition England’s eighth largest metropolis as the modern, trendy, inclusive, cosmopolitan place to live, work and visit that it more truly is!

Four years on and a few homo haunts may have come and gone but Hull can still pack well above its gay weight. Forget all all connotations with 'dull', 'hell' and flaking hulls of ships sawing through mudflats, in the rejuvenated waterfront and vibrant, rapidly expanding queer quarter, powered by hoards of horny earthy locals and Uni students, Hull is fast becoming the Venice of the North!

Sights
Troll through Hull’s attractive, quaint Old Town, perhaps snapping up an antique or popping into The Mission pub on Posterngate to sip real ales beneath radiant stained glass before re-refreshing yourself at a café beside Hull Marina - or inside its vast Prince’s Quay Shopping Centre should it piss down.

Learn about the city’s past at the highly interactive, award-winning and utterly free Streetlife Museum of Transport (www.hullcc.gov.uk), mingle with the sharks at the amazing, feted cutting-edge aquarium, The Deep (www.thedeep.co.uk), or take in a show at Hull’s elegant old New Theatre (www.hullcc.gov.uk).

Bed And Grub
Perched on the same handsome square as said New Theatre, the family-run Kingston Theatre Hotel (1-2 Kingston Square, 01482 225 828, www.kingstontheatrehotel.com) is utterly gay-friendly and just yards from much of the queer action.

For top nosh, hit friendly, trendy Lattitude (177 Newland Ave, 01482 471 390, www.lattitude.co.uk) north of centre near Pearson Park. It's a modern, stylish café-bar serving quality food all day long, from its varied breakfasts to refreshing soirée cocktails and classy evening fayre.

Bar And Club
Suitably sated, pop into recently refurb’ed The Yorkshireman (Lombard Street, 07770 672 868), an “intimate, decadent local” near the bus station just west of centre, from 5pm nightly, and also boasting B&B.

A further two minute walk takes you to even swisher gay-wooing Propaganda Café-Bar (Ferensway, 01482 222 700, www.propagandabar.co.uk) which offers heavy and light food and regular entertainment from the likes of international drag DJ Raunchy Rusty, quite apart from hosting the city’s main post-clubbing Nocturnal Afterparty every Friday and Saturday, 2.30am – dawn.

But to begin at the beginning try Frankie's Vauxhall Tavern (1 Hessle Road, Clive Sullivan Way, 01482 320 340) just south west of centre, to be precise. Lorded over by the eponymous Frankie - who essentially acts as comedy partner to all live drags on stage - this comfy, traditional and friendly bar with jukebox and pool table is crammed with unusual paraphernalia, artefacts and personalities accrued over decades that’d fail to exhaust any roving eye.

Due north, Polar Bear (229 Spring Bank, www.polarbearhull.co.uk) attracts both boys and girls with its listed interior featuring curvy, tiled bar and domed stained-glass ceiling - whether to sit and sip and stare or move it something silly on the brimming dance floor. Or check out the Bear’s sister pub, the nearby Star & Garter (Portland Street, 01482 211 298) for food and all-round fun.

For Hull’s main club proper, head to Fuel (6 Baker Street, 01482 228 436, www.fuel-hull.co.uk), near Propaganda and open seven nights a week ‘til 2am - extending to 6am via the latter’s 'Afterparty' come weekends. The main cavernous room has seating at one end and podia at the other where Hull’s finest are coaxed into action by top DJs. Cool off in the spacious, buzzing smoke-yard round the back come summer before diving back into the heaving swelter within as nights hot up. Fuel hosts Poptastic, first Friday every month, and Fussy Pussy, for the ladies, last Thursday every month.

Cruise And Steam
Still restless? Neptune Sauna (43 High Street, 01482 620 775) is an all-male 'health club' with jacuzzi, steam room, sauna cabin and TV lounge whose cleansing eucalyptus scent draws in droves from miles around. Or check out by the lake in lovely Pearson Park after dark, a short mile northwest.

Above all, as London’s little sister, Hull’s scene has not yet forgotten how to be open, warm and friendly. Like a short novel you can scarce put down, you’ll tear yourself away haunted by the memories of the dozens of plucky, feisty characters who inhabit it – hosts, entertainers, door whores, even big burly bouncers! So cut the smirks and hitch it quick to Hull!

Hull is a mere 2¾ hours from London by Hull Trains: www.hulltrains.co.uk
For more information on Hull’s gay scene: www.gayhull.com
Hull Pride takes place on 9 August 2008: www.hullpride.org.uk

Find out all the latest gay travel information by ordering the brand new 2008 Spartacus International Gay Guide. Get it online and save some money to put towards the other Bruno Gmunder guides - Hotel and Restaurant Guide and Sauna Guide.