No matter how many times you might have visited Spain’s second largest city there's always something left to discover and the city's vibrant and lively reputation is well deserved. Constantly at the pinnacle of fashion and cuisine, the capital of Catalonia still manages to remain at the cutting edge without losing any of its quite considerable provincial charm.

The city is divided into distinct districts, each with its own character and attractions. We take a leisurely stroll through Barcelona's best districts and take a look at what's on offer in this most beautiful of cities.

Las Ramblas and The Gothic Quarter
Las Ramblas is Barcelona’s, and perhaps Spain's, most famous boulevard and runs from Plaça de Catalunya to Barcelona's Old Port (Port Vell) along the edge of the medieval Gothic Quarter. This is Barcelona’s oldest area with many of the buildings dating back centuries and lies within the area that was circled by the old Roman walls of the city, segments of which still remain.

Despite the many tourists in this area Las Ramblas makes the perfect place to start exploring the city, especially as there is a tourist information centre and metro stop handily located right in Plaça de Catalunya. From here the long wide avenue of Las Ramblas with its central pedestrian walkway, lined with cafes, street artists and performers passes some exciting points of interest on its way to Old Port and the sea.

Walking down this road you'll pass Barcelona’s Opera House, the Gran Teatre del Licieu, as well as the beautifully restored Modernista structure which houses the Mercat de la Boqueria. This is Barcelona’s most emblematic food and produce market and a must see for any visitor to the city, plus it's also home to some inexpensive and delicious tapas bars for some tasty local treats. At the end of the street is the Monument a Colom which celebrates Christopher Columbus and marks the entrance to the Old Port and the beaches of Barceloneta.

To the east of Las Ramblas is the centre of the old city of Barcelona, the Barrio Gotico, a labyrinth of winding streets, cobbled squares, churches and medieval palaces. Most of the quarter is closed to traffic making it perfect for walking around on foot with plenty to discover along the way.

Losing yourself in the meandering streets is an absolute pleasure but guided walking tours in English are also available and details can be found at the tourist office in Plaça de Catalunya. If you want to explore on your own don’t miss the Cathedral of Santa Eulàlia, also called La Seu built between the 13-15 centuries with a later 19th century Gothic exterior, the Basilica of La Mercè on Plaça Mercè, the Gothic Plaças of Reial, Plaça de Sant Felip Neri and Sant Jaume, which contains both the impressive city hall and presidential palaces and the fantastic shopping on Portal de l'Àngel. For an insight into ancient Barcelona see the City History Museum on the Plaça del Rei and the remains of the temple of Augustus and the old roman wall around Plaça Sant Jaume.

La Ribera/ El Born
La Ribera is another of the city's old medieval districts and it was here that the wealthy elite made their homes during the height of Barcelona’s power in the 14th century under the Crown of Aragon. The area now has something of a bohemian atmosphere and its main street, Passeig del Born, is full of the most fashionable bars, restaurants and shops in the city.

This area is also known for its well preserved medieval architecture with the church of Santa María del Mar considered to be the best example of Catalan medieval architecture in the city. Built during the 14th century the area's central street, the Carrer de Montcada, leads to the Placeta de Montcada which was the centre of Barcelona’s medieval high society.

The palaces of the wealthy merchants from this period still stand, with five now housing the city's most visited tourist attraction, the Picasso Museum, which can be found at numbers 15-23. The Via Laetana will lead you past the city’s classical musical hall and the Modernista Arc de Triomf and on to the city's largest central park, Parc de la Ciutadella, which offers a welcome oasis in which to relax. The park was formerly a military fortress and the grounds for Barcelona’s 1888 Universal Exhibition and is also home to the geological and zoological museums and the city’s zoo.

El Raval
El Raval was historically the red-light zone and a slum of Old Barcelona and is another district which also borders Las Ramblas. The area was historically known for its nightclubs, cabaret as well as prostitution and had rather a sleazy and dangerous reputation. Recently it has cleaned up its act and is now home to the city's largest immigrant populations from Asia and Eastern Europe and a thriving local art scene too.

The Raval is located behind, and can be reached from, the Mercat de la Boqueria on Las Ramblas. Just behind the market you will find the Antic Hospital de la Santa Creu, founded in the 10th century this is one of Europe's earliest medical complexes, although most of the present buildings and courtyards were built in the 15th and 16th centuries and are now home to the National Library of Catalunya. From the hospital the Carrer dels Angels leads up to the gothic square of Plaça dels Angels which is where you can find both the MACBA (the Modern Art Museum of Barcelona) and the Barcelona Cultural Centre (Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona).

To the southern end of the Raval is the Palau Güell, one of the only examples of Catalan Art Nouveau architecture in the old part of the city. It was commissioned by Antonio Gaudi’s patron and supporter, the industrialist Eusebi Güell, whose family were from this area of the city.

La Barceloneta and Port Vell
Port Vell has been the hub of Barcelona’s maritime activity since Roman times, although it was not until recently that the neglected docks got a well deserved and comprehensive makeover. This revitalised area now contains some impressive attractions, restaurants, bars and shops. The docks are now an important port for numerous pleasure boats and private yachts which moor here around The Maremagnum complex, a multi level shopping and entertainment centre containing the IMAX cinema and Barcelona’s aquarium.

Follow the Passeig Maritim towards the coast and you arrive at the beaches of Barceloneta. This area was also in serious decline until the 1980s when a series of regeneration projects reclaimed the area for sun-worshippers and swimmers. The beach here has become a popular meeting place during the summer months and it is here you'll find the closest gay beach to the city. Just inland you'll also find a large number of restaurants in the streets of Barceloneta and the best seafood restaurants in the city.

The Teleférico de Montjuic, a cable car running from Torre de Sant Sebastià, provides a stunning ride over the open water of the port to the hill of Montjuic for stunning views of the city, Montjuic park and the National Palace.

Port Olimpic
Carry on further up the coast and you reach the Olympic Port and then the areas of Poblenou and the Forum. Built for the 1992 Olympic Games the Olympic Port was constructed as a showcase for the modern city of Barcelona and is in stark contrast to the medieval buildings of the old town. This area has relatively little for tourists to see apart from some modern architecture, public sculptures and some good bars and restaurants. The main attraction for visitors would be for the beaches, which are the best close to the city.

L'Eixample
Eixample is the name of the district just inland from the old city and translates as extension or enlargement in Catalan. This area of the city was constructed during the city’s 19th century industrial boom as a new residential area for the city’s recently wealthy middle classes. In contrast to the city's old town, Eixample was set out in a strict grid pattern with diagonal avenues running from the city centre and is therefore much easier to navigate than the maze which is the old town. It is in this area, just to the west of Plaça de Catalunya, where the majority of Barcelona’s iconic Art Nouveau Modernista buildings can be found.

Just four blocks up from Plaça de Catalunya along Passeig de Gràcia is La Manzana de Discordia, a block which contains a row of three such buildings by the movements top three architects: Casa Lleo Morera by Domènech i Montaner, Casa Amatller by Josep Puig i Cadafalch and Casa Batlló by Antoni Gaudí. Casa Battló is now owned by the Chupa Chups lollipop family and is well worth entering, just walk right in!

Just west from La Manzana de Discordia is the Fundació Antoni Tàpies, a contemporary modern art museum also housed in another Modernista building, this time designed by architect Domènech i Montaner.

Back on Passeig de Gràcia going north is the city’s Egyptian museum, continue past this and you will find La Pedrera ('The Quarry'). This is another work by Gaudi and now houses the cultural and exhibition centre the Fundació Caixa de Cataluna with its frequent displays and sometimes concerts.

To the east of La Pedrera is Barcelona’s most famous landmark and attraction, La Sagrada Familia, 'The Expiatory Temple of the Holy Family'. The church is yet to be completed as work was stopped after Gaudi’s death in 1926 only to be resumed in the 1950s. The church is the culmination of Gaudi’s architectural approach and if you are pressed for time this is the one sight not to miss. Take the ride up the public lift for a breathtaking traverse across the walkway of two of the spires (not for the faint hearted) and the only way back down is via the stairs.

Gracia
Go north of Eixample and you will find the Gracia neighbourhood of the city or from Plaça de Catalunya follow Passeig de Gràcia to the end. This area was originally a separate village from Barcelona and was only joined to the city during the expansion of Eixample in the 19th century. Consequently the streets lack the uniformity and size of its neighbouring district and although the area has its fair share of bars, restaurants and nightlife it lacks the edge of the more contemporary and central Raval and Eixample.

The main reason for tourists to visit this area lies just to the north, Park Güell. Designed by Barcelona’s most famous son, Antonio Gaudi, Park Güell was commissioned by Count Eusebi Güell as a private housing community for the city’s elite. The project was not a commercial success however and the park was bought by the city in 1922 and opened to the public.

This flamboyant and colourful park is a showcase for Gaudi’s original and inspiring style of architecture and blends stylish design with outlandish forms to provide a totally unique experience. There is a reduced rate for those who wish to see both the Park and the Sagrada Famalia, both are must sees if you have the time. The parks unmistakable entrance is on Carrer d'Olot, take the Metro to Lesseps where signs lead you along Travessera de Dalt and then take a left on Carrer de Larrad.

Montjüic and Poble Sec
The hill overlooking Barcelona to the south west is called Montjüic and the area below, including the stunning Plaça de Espanya and Palau Nacional, is Poble Sec. Due to the elevation of Montjüic it is not accessible by Metro, but the funicular from the Metro station Estació Parc Montjuic offers the easiest access. For Poble Sec, Metro stations Espanya or Poble Sec are the most convenient. Although not the easiest parts of the city to reach, the sheer number of attractions in the area makes this area almost impossible to miss.

From stately Plaça de Espanya at the base of Montjuic hill the Avenida de la Reina Maria Cristina leads up to the grand Palau Nacional, a neo-baroque masterpiece built for the 1929 exhibition, which now houses the Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalyuna. This avenue is lined by an enormous series of fountains, the largest being La Font Magica, which explode in a nightly free display set to lights and music, undoubtedly the city’s best free entertainment.

From the Palau Nacional a series of escalators will take you to the summit of Montjuic Park with its Jardi Botanic (Botanical Garden), the Olympic Stadium and stunning view of Barcelona below. Once at the top visitors can also see the Fundació Joan Miró museum which houses the most complete collection of this Catalan master’s works. For great views along the Mediterranean coast don’t miss the 17th century fortress of Castell de Montjüic.

Gay Barcelona
While the oldest gay bars are to be found scattered around the old part of the town, just off Las Ramblas, the greatest concentration of venues is in the new gay area, also located in Eixample and cleverly renamed as Gayxample! Not surprisingly in such a relaxed and tolerant city most of the bars cater to a mixed, but metrosexual crowd. Just west of the Universitat Metro station are where the majority of bars, restaurants and shops are located, between Gran Via de las Corts Catalanes and Carrer Arago on C. Casanova and Villarroel streets.

Nightlife starts predictably late in Barcelona so a siesta before you go out is a good idea. Dinner is typically not started until 9pm or later, with bars not even warming up until after 11pm. Clubs in Barcelona are also numerous and varied the most popular and largest being the Arena Group, Salvation, and Souvenir.

EuroGames 2008
EuroGames is the largest sporting event for the LGBT community in Europe and is being hosted by Barcelona in 2008. The event attracts over 3,000 sportsmen and women taking part in 28 sporting disciplines watched by over 10,000 spectators. Not just for the sporting enthusiast, the games provides a whole series of cultural events, seminars, exhibitions, workshops and parties for everyone to enjoy. Not only a sports festival the games aims to integrate and gain more acceptance for the LGBT community.

Where To Stay
Barcelona is one of the largest conference cities in the world and consequently there is a huge range of accommodation to choose from and almost all will welcome gay visitors with open arms. While there are many gay guesthouses and apartment rental companies to choose from the largest and possibly best located is the Axel Hotel, situated in Eixample and within walking distance to most of the gay bars in the area.


Find out all the latest gay travel information by ordering the brand new 2008 Spartacus International Gay Guide. Get it online and save some money to put towards the other Bruno Gmunder guides - Hotel and Restaurant Guide and Sauna Guide.