Engelberg is smack bang in the middle of Switzerland, close to the city of Lucerne, and a mere hour and a half drive from Zurich airport. Established in the 12th Century by a nobleman who had a vision of an angel, the town is the home to a Benedictine monastery that was, until 1815, an autonomous state. During the 19th century, Engelberg or “Angel Mountain”, became a prosperous spa town, and today it is home to a substantial ski resort.

The town is chocolate box pretty, with traditional chalet-style architecture, and surrounded by incredible snow-capped mountains. In the valley the climate is moderate. Locals complain that they do not get as much snow as they used to, but up in the mountains there is plenty on which to ski, and temperatures drop to minus 15 degrees on top of Mount Titlis. Engelbergers have their own dialect, German is the predominant language although English is widely understood.

Grand hotels from the town’s spa heyday still line the streets but because it is a resort, there are plenty of places to stay. The tourist office can set you up with a list of hotels, pensions, camping grounds and chalets. Getting abount in Engelberg is easy, it’s small enough to walk around and there’s a free shuttle-bus connecting the ski stations.

Kooky fact: Engelbergers are amongst the world’s best at the Tug-of-war.

In the winter, the town is deserted during the day – everyone’s on the slopes! Engelberg is a paradise for lovers of snow sports. There is an extensive network of ski and snowboarding runs for all levels of ability. Torchlight skiing sessions are held after dark. Non-skiers can also enjoy the snow. There is a 3.5km toboggan run, and hiking through the surrounding woodland is a popular activity. Nobody should miss a cable car trip up to the summit of Mount Titlis, the revolving gondola gives you amazing views of the glacier, it’s literally breathtaking.

It’s difficult to avoid the snow, but the town has some pleasant ways to pass the time. You could visit the cheese-making monastery, which hosts Switzerland’s largest organ in its chapel, you could book a massage at Felsenbad Eienwäldli spa, look around the town’s charming museum, or you could gasp at the sheer tackiness of the souvenirs on offer in the local shops.

Engelberg boasts a lively après ski scene. There are loads of places to eat, fondue – if you can face a big vat of bubbling cheese – is a speciality. Local bakeries produce the most delicious-looking cakes, and of course there is the famous Swiss chocolate to sample.

Because the town is so small there isn’t much of an established gay scene. Gay or lesbian visitors might find out that they are the scene, but it’s the kind of place that you could go to with a big bunch of friends and have a riot. The Yucatan is a bar in the centre of town that’s popular with the young crowd, including a handful of homos. If you find yourself pining for more of a queer scene, Lucerne is a short drive or train ride away.

Engelberg is a great place to visit, within easy reach of Britain. It offers wonderful skiing, and more too. But here’s a word of warning: don’t go if you are lactose intolerant or are mortally afraid of cablecars.

Getting There
Travel packages to Engelberg can booked through the Switzerland Travel Centre on freephone 00800 100 200 30 or send an email to stc@stlondon.com. Check out their website for more on Switzerland at www.MySwitzerland.com